This celebrated dish of Jun’an has been included in the Standards of Jun’an Famous Dishes. The history of this dish could date back to the late Qing Dynasty when a whole steamed pig was offered to gods and ancestors in Jiangwei, a small area in Jun’an, during Qingming (or the Tomb Sweeping Day) and the Double Ninth Festival. It is bewitchingly fragrant and richly fat but not greasy. The skin is smooth, while the flesh is elastically tender. When this dish was introduced in the first season of a famous documentary, A Bite of China, it rose to fame across the country.
Huanglian barbecued pork, already famous in the late 1920s, is now a renowned brand of roast meat in Shunde. The main ingredients include pork shoulder, Shanxi Fen wine, malt sugar syrup, soy sauce and secret spices. Roasted over high-quality charcoal in a large standing roasting oven, the pork gets a tempting color, with rich crystal-like fat and the tender amber-like lean meat. It is aromatic, savory, and sweet. With perfect control of heat and timing, a high-quality barbecued pork would usually have several fingernail-sized caramelized marks on it.
It’s a famous dish of former Qinghui Chuxianglou Restaurant in Shunde. After dredged in heated oil, the chopped ribs, better streaky rather than lean, are put in a gray clay pot, together with the sweet&sour sauce made with litchi vinegar, white and black vinegar. Steam till tender and fragrant. Then serve with the pot. Elegant, aromatic, and flavorful, it is one of the new Shundenese dishes since the reform and opening-up. This delicacy won its name in many events such as Shunde Famous Dishes Tour in Hong Kong and the 2001 Shunde Gourmet Festival in Taiwan.
猪脚姜
Stewed Pork Trotters with Ginger
猪脚煲来蛋自香,
祛风活血护群芳。
今时七尺奇男子,
吃醋犹如坐月娘。
(图片由大良鱼膳坊提供)
猪脚(或猪手)煲姜是珠三角、港澳地区妇女的产后补品,通常用猪脚(猪后蹄)、鸡蛋、老姜、甜醋煲透而成。《广东小吃》一书中写道:“猪脚(手)姜醋蛋始创于广东顺德,已有几百年的历史。”煲透的老姜爽脆而不辣,猪脚皮焾软而不腻,甜醋甜而不酸,反复煲之,味厚而隽永。猪脚姜成为广东民间最具特色的滋补小吃和佳肴。It is a must-have postpartum tonic and a popular nourishing treat across Guangdong. The ginger, Cantonese sweeten black vinegar, eggs and collagen-rich trotters are stewed for hours till they become soft and tender. A book, Guangdong Xiaochi(or Guandong’s Dim Sum), writes: “The stewed pork trotters with ginger was created in Shunde and had a history of hundreds of years.” The ginger is crunchy but not spicy; the trotters are soft but not greasy; the vinegar is sweet but not tangy. After repeated simmering, its flavor becomes richer and more intense.
●琉璃:指琉璃肺。It’s a nonesuch of slow-cooked soups that nourish the lung. The milky soup was made by a native Shundenese master chef in Hong Kong, Liang Jing at Luk Yu Tea House in the 1980s. It is acclaimed as a classic example of Kung Fu delicacies by a book Hong Kong Wei Dao(or Hong Kong’s Taste).
According to Shunde County Annuals, the dish firstly appeared in the Qing Dynasty and it’s named so because alongside a stack of three cooked meaty shreds is a bird nest made of entwined fried egg slivers. It is a technical “xiao chao” (small stir-fried) dish that requires topnotch knife skill and robust “wok hei”, a slightly seared flavor imparted to food in a seasoned wok. It’s also a poetic delicacy that depicts the legend of building nest to attract the female phoenix. “Xiao chao” is a term to describe a simple stir-fried medley of whatever ingredients cooks have in their kitchen, typically including a variety of vegetables and a little meat.